Despite my less than flattering attempts to re create a sweater and dress from a vintage sweater last weekend, I simply could not let this idea go. When my friend Jayne sent me a pin of the most wonderful mid weight quilted cloqué jersey dress fabric, I knew it would be perfect for this vintage style.

 

I re drafted the pattern with a lower and therefore hopefully more flattering neckline, and also adjusted the underarm and side seams to accomodate my bust, but skim my waist and end in an A line hem, to hopefully balance my top heavy figure.
I also added pockets.



I decided against adding a zip in the back. The dress no longer needed it with the lower neckline, but I think an exposed zipper would be a nice design feature at the back, especially if I could get one with a silver ring as a pull....very 60's!



I'm mostly very pleased with this version, I adore the fabric, the lower neckline is much better, and I like the neckband as a finish on this fabric.



I also still love the 3/4 length sleeves and band finish.



I like the size and positioning of the pockets, but I think having them double layered was a mistake. They pull in the side seam too much and spoil the line of the skirt.
The hem too, is not perfect. I pondered adding a band to the hem, but didn't want a sweatshirt style look...although that is an option for future makes with this pattern.



This pattern still needs a little refining, it needs to come in a bit at the side seams, especially at the waist, and maybe take the A line in a little further too.
Mostly though I'm pretty pleased with it. Really not the most flattering dress on me, but as a Weekend Doris dress I think it is almost there.

When I have a piece of ready to wear or vintage clothing in my wardrobe that I love, and wear and wear again, I often copy it. Sometimes I take apart the original piece of clothing and trace each piece, and sometimes I trace the item without taking it apart. Both of these methods are often called a "rub off" or "rubbing off", which sounds vaguely rude so I've not been brave enough to google it!



I've had this vintage top for a while, you can see the dark patches where my arms have rubbed against my boobs and worn the fabric thin. I admit this top is not particularly flattering, especially recently because I've gained a lot of weight, but I still love it. I call it my "Weekend Doris" look because my husband has frequently found me doing housework in heels and a pinny during the week, sighed and said "Oh dear you are having a Doris Day moment again", so at the weekend when I dress down a little, either in a comfy dress or cigarrette pants and a top, I like to think I'm having a weekend Doris moment! (And now you all know way too much about the general state of my mind!)

Always hopeful I will magically lose weight, I decided to rub off this top and that way I'd have a pattern for it should I want to make more in the future.

I started by laying several flannel sheets folded to make a good firm pad on my dining table. I then lay swedish tracing paper over the sheets, and the pressed top over that. Carefully smoothing out the sleeve so that the underarm seam was flat I pinned the sleeve to the pad and then traced around it.



Removing the pins and the top, I then trued up all the lines using my ruler, and labelled my pattern piece.

 



I then repeated this same procedure for the front and back, only tracing half . I traced the front neckline onto the same tracing.





I cut out my pattern pieces and made sure they matched up.



I then used these tracings to make the pattern pieces, adding seam allowance and labels to each piece, including grain lines, and direction of stretch.





Finally I had a sleeve, a front and a back pattern piece.
The vintage top has limited stretch and a very high neck, so like several other vintage tops/sweaters I own it has a zip at the back neck, and the neck is bound with bias binding. I really like this little vintage feature, so used it again on the first top I made from this pattern. Also binding the hem using home made bias binding.





Looks good on the hanger....really not so much on me!!



Undeterred and enjoying the process I made another....



....and a dress....



...hmmm yes!!

That high neckline and lack of shaping in the waist on my curves is an absolute no no! Despite that though, I am wearing the dress today, it's a comfy sunday dress that I can layer under scarves and cardigans, so not a total disaster. I don't feel very Doris in it though, such a shame.

I'm not dissapointed though in my weeks work, I've enjoyed playing with this design, and I think with a few tweeks and a bit of re drafting, I might yet come up with my perfect "Weekend Doris" sweater top or dress.

Do you have a weekend look? I'd love to hear from you if you do, or even if you don't. Oh, and if you want to see my weekend Doris inspiration board on Pinterest just click here.