My favourite seams to use particularly on childrens wear are french seams.The french seam has all raw edges enclosed and is ideal for lightweight fabrics, especially lingerie, nightwear or childrens wear, when comfort is of paramount importance, especially when seams are next to delicate skin.
I use french seams in all of these situations, but also when sewing lightweight blouses like my recent Banksia Top. If you like to sew vintage, a french seam is a useful skill to have.

This seam is ideal to use with my Flossie's Pinafore pattern, and with the free tutorial for matching Baby Bloomers.  
If you'd like to be in with a chance of winning a Flossie's Pinafore pattern, take a look here. 

When I first learned to sew any seams, I measured, pinned and tacked at every stage. It wasn't until I was in sixth form and studying for A Level needlework that my teacher allowed me to skip this stage. I haven't included that preperation in my tutorial, because I think I know most people are going to skip it anyway...you naughty lot!
I would say though, if you are an absolute beginner, measuring, pinning and tacking at each stage are worth it in the long run. Good preperation never hurt anyone.

French Seams:

1: Starting with fabric wrong sides together (often referred to as ws tog )



2: Using the guides on your sewing machine footplate, sew a 10mm seam. (If your machine does not have these markings, you can measure the required amount and use masking tape to make the marking on the footplate.




3: Trim your seam allowance to 3mm




4: Press seam open.




5: Turn fabric right sides together ( rs tog ) Press again.



6: This time using the notched markings on your presser foot sew a 5mm seam. ( Again you can mark 5mm on your machine footplate if your presser foot does not have the correct measured markings. )



7: Press.

Wrong side:


Right side:



Close up of wrong side:

Look on any sewing website or in any sewing book and you will find a list of essential equipment. Here, I'm going to talk about my essentials for dressmaking. Quilters and crafters might have a slightly different list, but as a dressmaker that only rarely dabbles in other types of needlecraft I am concentrating here on dressmaking.



Dressmaking Shears: Don't ever skimp on these, buy the best you can afford, keep them sharp and NEVER let anyone cut paper with them. My family all know well that using Mummy's dressmaking shears is a heinous and terrible crime, and they would never do it. (I'm not sure what they think I might do if they did, but clearly this is one area of my parental discipline that has actually worked.)

Small Craft/Embroidery Scissors: I have several pairs of these dotted about my various work stations. I use them for snipping threads,trimming seams and sometimes unpicking when I can't find my stitch ripper. (not really recommended)

Large Paper Scissors: You will need these for cutting pattern pieces. I'm not totally averse to cutting tissue pattern pieces with my dressmaking shears,but I would never cut paper patterns with those. That's what I use my paper scissors for.

Tape Measure: Buy a good quality tape that will not stretch. I like to wear a tape measure around my neck so it's always with me while I work, but I also like to have a couple of coiled tape dispenser gadgets too. Following a tip from my good friend and seamstress Mary, I always try to carry a tape in my handbag. I treated myself to this one just recently.

Pins and Pin Cushion: I am probably quite unusual in dressmaking circles because I don't tend to use dressmaking pins. I always used to, but when I started making cloth nappies a decade or so ago, it became apparent that using small pins it was too easy to overlook a pin and leave it in the nappy. Counting them in and out was fine, but not foolproof. That is when I switched to using quilters large pins with large heads. Nowadays I simply find these easier to handle and easier to keep track off...my family do not appreciate stepping on tiny pins I've dropped, they don't like stepping on large ones either, but I'm far for likely to see those before anyone steps on one. Plus, being larger they tend to rarely land in a way that can cause too much damage to a bare foot. Another bonus is that they are very pretty.

Top Tip: a magnet is a handy tool to keep with your pins, if you do drop them, the magnet makes it a whole lot easier to pick them up again...just keep it away from your sewing machine if it's a modern computerised model.

As for pin cushions, I have several. I like one on my desk and I like to wear a wrist cushion for when I'm cutting out or fitting.



Hand Sewing Needles: Hand sewing is an essential part of any dressmaking. I love handsewing, I find it relaxing. I always keep a good selection of hand sewing needles in my pin cushion.

Machine Sewing Needles: I always keep a good selection of machine needles and change them frequently depending on the fabrics I'm using, and at the beginning of each new project. This is one of the biggest mistakes beginners make; not changing the needle in their machine frequently or appropriately.

Stitch Ripper: It would be nice to never need one of these, but trust me, we all do sometimes, and they are also very useful for cutting buttonholes after machine stitching.

Tailors Chalk/Marker Pens: I use both of these. I think my personal preference is for marker pens, usually if I'm drafting a new pattern, rarely if I'm working on a precious item. I wouldn't say I use either that often, but they are very useful. Just don't use the dissapearing ink kind of pen and take a break of a few days before getting back to your project...ask me how I know!!!

Iron and Ironing board: You know, really this should be top of the list. I can't emphasise enough how important good pressing equipment is to good dressmaking. I was taught to press at *every* stage of dressmaking. I never skimp on pressing.Your garments will go together so much easier if you press at every stage, and the end result will be worth it.
I recently read this excellent article on pressing.
Buy the best iron you can, one with good steam, but also good dry iron capabilities. Don't skimp on the ironing board either. I find I prefer a large ironing board, they make ironing large lengths of fabric so much easier, but also feel more sturdy.
As this is a list of essentials, I've debated adding extras like a tailors ham, sleeve roll or pressing cloth. You certainly can get by without these, but in my experience they do make a great deal of difference to the process of pressing. I would say, they are not truly essential, but if you can afford them, (and they are quite inexpensive), then do buy them. Of course a pressing cloth need cost very little, you can use fabric from your stash or a well washed cotton tea towel /old sheet. (Hmmm I think another seperate post on pressing alone is called for.)

So tell me, how does this list differ to yours? What would you add and why?

I love a good sewing book, I have shelves heaving with various books ranging from dry old text books through to gorgeous modern sewing books with lovely glossy photos. I have far too many on my wish list at Amazon.
My very favourite books though are old, you could call them vintage if you wanted to be fashionable, but really they are just old.

 

The Readers Digest Book of Sewing

 

Oh how I love this book. Every sewer should have one. This book has everything, every technique you will ever need in detail with lovely clear diagrams. I urge anyone wanting to take up sewing to buy this book. Older copies come up on Ebay frequently and are inexpensive, but you can get up to date copies too. Really, just buy it. I still refer to this book despite having been sewing most of my life.

 

Complete Dressmaking in Pictures.



I picked up this book at a Brownie jumble sale for 50p about 10 years ago. I think it dates from the 1940's, but I can't find a publishing date.
Firstly I have to say I love this book because it smells old, and it's well worn, you can tell someone has used it again and again.
Despite being called "Complete Dressmaking", I think most modern sewers would find a great deal missing. An awful lot of prior knowledge is assumed, and the patterns in the back require a certain amount of pattern drafting know how.
I do love to flick through it though, and keep meaning to make up some of the patterns, it's on my to do list!


 

The Batsford Book of Sewing.

 

This is one of the books I had for A level needlework at school. I believe Ann Ladbury was briefly a teacher at my school (before my time), and I think she had a tv series sometime in the early 70's.
This book is alphabetical starting with Alterations and finishing with zips. Lots of lovely clear diagrams, a handy book for a quick look up of something.
Flipping through this book makes me smile as it reminds me of A Level homework. we'd often be given homework along the lines of "Design a dress you might wear to an afternoon tea party, describe the fabrics you might use giving reasons for your choices, draw the pattern pieces, and layout then describe your order of work." I loved this kind of homework.

 

Fabrics for Needlework

 

Another book from back when I was doing A Level at school. This book is really very dated in that many modern fabrics are of course not included, but all the basics are there, and described right from properties of the fibre, through construction of the fabric . I actually do use this book a lot, mostly for burn tests, I like doing burn tests, and they are jolly useful when buying fabric from various places where they are not always clearly labelled.

Complete Needlecraft



Now this really is a little gem. I can sit and read this book like a novel. This paticular copy is dated 1946, but you can see from the photos that it was clearly written at least a decade earlier.
This book covers all needlecraft, embroidery, dressmaking, knitting and crochet, patchwork, home upholstery etc.

 

There are very few photos, and this book assumes a great deal of prior needleworking knowledge.
In the introduction to the "Home Dressmaking " chapter, the author talks about dressmaking becoming so much easier after 1914.

"So, you see, home dressmaking is no longer a skilled art for exceptionally clever needlewomen,but a pleasant job that even the most inexperienced can take up with success. In these days it is no exaggeration to say that if you can sew (and who can't?) you can dressmake also."

I love that a flat iron and iron stand is listed in the essential equipment, an electric iron is listed in optional equipment.The author also mentions folding ironing tables as an optional extra, I'm guessing ironing boards were a fairly new invention when she was writing?

She goes on to say:

"Most women,even if they have never done any dressmaking so far, know the ordinary plain sewing stitches. They are learnt at school and used so constantly for ordinary sewing jobs that they are never forgotten. For this reason such everyday stitches as hemming,overcasting, and whipping are not included in this book..."

 

I really do love this book. When I read it I feel connected to so many before me who were taught to sew and enjoyed their craft. Simply it makes me very happy!

I'd love to know what your favourite books are, leave me a comment and let me know.

 

I dream of the perfect sewing space. Sometimes when I can't sleep I plan in my mind my perfect sewing room, light and airy with a dedicated cutting table, desks for different machines,shelves filled with stacks of beautiful fabrics and haberdashery....I have a whole pinterest board full of studio envy.
The reality though, for most of us is far from my dream sewing space. Certainly it is here.
Most people are not lucky enough to have a whole room at their disposal, if you do, that's wonderful, and I'm very jealous!
You can still sew in even a very small space with a bit of imaginative organisation.
As I mentioned in a previous post , I have moved my sewing space as my family has grown. I live in a fairly average (UK) sized semi detached house. Of course in my case, five lively children in a four bedroomed house doesn't exactly leave much room for anything else.
Teenagers tend to drape themselves and their general detritus everywhere I look, while toddlers leave a trail of destruction. There are always shoes, and coats strewn about the floor, no matter how many times I pick them up.

 

My sewing space is a tiny little nook of my bedroom. I have a small desk which holds my main sewing machine, a small tin of essential tools,and a good lamp. During the day there is usually good light into this nook from the large loft windows, but the lamp is essential on a dull day. (all too common here in the north west)
There is a drawer that holds tools and notions that are in regular use, (scissors, sewing machine needles etc)
To the right of my desk are baskets filled with works in progress and haberdashery. There is also a hanging rail I use to store current projects, inspiration and patterns, as well as a desk top ironing board which is adequate for smaller projects. (For larger projects I have to use the large ironing board downstairs, which does mean lots of running up and down the two flights of stairs, but that's one way to stay fit right?)


I usually set up the desk top board and my overlocker on the larger desk I share with Woody.
Under the eaves of our loft bedroom there is lots of storage space, and that is where I store all my fabrics and tools less often used.
I cut out on our dining room table, though I do have a lightweight cutting board I picked up in a local charity shop that I can use on the floor or on the bed if I need to. I would only do this for small craft projects, not for dressmaking. I'd be afraid I'd be compromising my accuracy, and I'd end up with a sore back too.
My tiny space is far from ideal, but it's workable, and for me, more importantly is away from the hub bub of life in our busy home.
I have tried to sew downstairs, but it was too stressful an environment, with food and drinks left too close to precious fabrics, not to mention paints and grubby toddlers.
Sewing for me is a kind of therapy, it's time to create and relax, something I found impossible while dinner was being cooked around me, and children were walking past me in their muddy boots, or dripping their ice lollies.

 

So, with all that in mind, here finally are my top tips for creating your own sewing space:

• You don't need a huge sewing space, but if you have one, lucky you, there is lots of inspiration out there on the web, especially on Pinterest to help you create that perfect space.
• Look around your home, can you squeeze in a desk somewhere, an alcove in the dining room or your bedroom? Or even a cupboard? I've seen photos of sewing spaces fitted in to old pantries and even large wardrobes, that way everything shuts away when not in use. I have used furniture designed for housing home office equipment very successfully in the past.
• Ideally choose somewhere with good light, but also consider artificial light for duller days or evenings. A good angle poise lamp, possibly fitted with a daylight bulb is essential.
• Make sure your chair is comfortable and a good height to work at. You'll be spending lots of time at your machine, you need to be comfortable.
• Can you fit shelving or pegboard above your machine to store essential tools, and threads? I use an old printers tray to store my threads, above the larger desk I share with Woody.
•  Think about fabric storage, sometimes a blanket box will work well, and double up as a window seat. I've often found under bed storage crates work well for fabric storage too. (They hold a surprising amount!)
• If you can, having your iron and ironing board set up in the same room is best, but if there is no space then a table top ironing board is an adequate compromise, especially for smaller craft items, and children's clothing.
• A full length mirror is essential if you are making clothes for yourself. I'm sure most people reading own one. It doesn't have to be in the same room, but it is helpful if it is. I have a full length mirror in my en suite bathroom.

• Finally, I know I've said here that I prefer to be away from the hub bub of family life when I work. I realise that for some people that is not an option. In which case, consider setting up your sewing space in a corner of your children's play room, if you are lucky enough to have one. Otherwise look for a space nearby, so you can work and interact with your children at the same time. For several years I sewed while Sid played quietly at my feet, Ernest though is whole other kettle of fish, he doesn't do anything quietly ever!

Further reading/resources:

As I mentioned, Pinterest is fabulous for inspiration , as is Flickr .
I borrowed this book  from a friend a few years ago and found it very helpful.

I'd love to hear about your sewing spaces, or plans for a sewing space, and links to photos would be even better. What are your top tips for a successful sewing space?

Welcome to part one of my Back to Basics sewing series.Choosing a Sewing Machine; it's a subject that pops up on sewing forums often, and one I get asked about pretty often too.
Firstly you need to identify the reasons you want a sewing machine:

Do you want to learn to sew?
Are you an experienced hobby seamstress that wants to upgrade?
How often do you intend to use the machine?
What are you planning to sew? Soft furnishings? Childrens clothes? Quilting? All of those and more?

Answer these questions honestly. Do you really need hundreds of stitches, or will you realistically only use the basics? Most modern machines come with an array of stitches . I remember at school we were told all we really needed was a straight stitch, but a zig zag would be nice.That's still true. If you've inherited your grandmothers machine that only does straight stitch, it's still possible to make beautiful clothing and home furnishings etc, it just means you'll have to work harder on things like neatening seams, and you'll have to learn to do your buttonholes by hand, a skill worth having anyway.
I am actually on the look out for a very basic hand powered machine to take to craft fairs with me, so I can sew at my stall. Those types of machines are also fab for teaching younger children to sew.


This is me hard at work back in 2005, stitching nappy wraps on my Husqvarna Lily.

You also need to decide on your budget. You don't have to have a huge budget to get a very good machine that will last you many years, but you might have to consider buying second hand.

Ideally you should visit your local sewing machine shop, sadly this isn't as easy as it once was, but there are a few specialists still around, and often they have reconditioned machines for sale as well as sometimes offering very good trade in deals on old machines. I have a good friend who raided her inlaws garage for an old machine to trade in for a machine she'd been longing for.

 
My very first sewing machine

My first sewing machine came from a small trader who serviced machines and sold reconditioned models. My Dad bought it for me in the mid 1980's (It's a 1970's Singer), I learnt to sew on that machine, I used it all through college, and for many years after that including making several hundred nappies for a cloth nappy business I used to run. That machine was worth every penny spent on it, sadly only giving up the ghost a couple of years ago, and I'm still hopeful of reviving it again someday. (Incidentally I see lots of the exact machines popping up on Ebay frequently and for less than £50 in most cases.)

Most people who ask me about choosing a sewing machine have probably not used one since they were at school and want to make clothes for their children, and perhaps a few soft furnishings. They don't know yet if sewing is going to become a big part of their lives or just a handy string to their bow.
Usually, I would say to these people that unless money is of no issue then sticking to a budget of around £50-£100 can get you a good machine suitable for all your needs for a very long time.

For this kind of budget you can get a basic machine made by one of the larger manufacturers, or you can (with a bit of research) get a jolly good second hand machine, either from a local sewing machine shop or from an auction site like Ebay.
I would say, if you are going to buy from an auction site, always check the machine is in working order, that all cables are intact, and that it's possible to obtain the manual if it doesn't come with the machine. Always check too that spare parts or accessories are easy to get hold of. (this goes for new machines too, but more on that later.)

Ideally you'd try out any machine before you buy, obviously that isn't usually possible if buying from an auction site, but certainly is, or should be if buying from a dealer or department store. Take along a few scraps of the kinds of fabrics you think you'll be sewing most, some lightweight, some heavy, see how each machine copes with each fabric.

I'm wary of recommending specific machines here, I can tell you that I've been very happy with my 1970's Singer, my Husqvarna, my Brother Overlocker, and the basic Brother machine I bought for India.
Brands I would consider if buying new are, Husqvarna, Bernina,Janome,Brother, Juki , and second hand, all of those plus vintage Jones, New Home and Singer. I personally wouldn't buy a new Singer.

Finally I wouldn't recommend buying a bargain machine from any of the super low priced bargain supermarkets, even if they seem to be a good brand. I fell for this a few years ago and bought India a bargain machine, the timing went on it the second time it was used, a problem that simply was not worth fixing on such a poorly constructed machine. The cost of repairs would've been more than replacement. I did not like taking that machine to the recycling centre, and was most disappointed to see a whole pile of them waiting to be shipped off to who knows where to be dismantled and recycled. What a horrible waste!
Just a couple of weeks ago I was in one of these supermarkets and they had a sewing machine on sale, a brand most people would recognise, priced around £85. I don't think that would be money well spent.

Obviously I'm speaking here from my own experience, always happy to hear of others opinions and experiences. Tell me, what was your first machine? Do you still have it? More importantly, would you recommend it?

I have been fascinated by fabrics and needlecraft since I was a small child. I remember being sat on the floor in my Grandfathers house laying coloured tissues over my dolls in an attempt to fashion them some rainbow outfits. I was probably 3 or 4 years old. I can remember my Mum telling me off for wasting tissues, but my lovely Grandad saying to let me be, I was obviously happy.
A few years later, my most treasured possession was a paper bag filled with tiny fabric scraps, a reel of thread and a needle. I was convinced I could stitch all these tiny scraps together into something beautiful.
My Mother wasn't a seamstress, she could knit and taught me when I was very young. I loved that she knitted all my dolls clothes, but wished I had someone to teach me how to sew.
When I was probably 12, My Mum bought me a subscription for one of those monthly collect a series sewing courses. It was aimed at young teens, I think very probably a promotional leaflet came inside a copy of Blue Jeans, Patches or Jackie!

 


I think it was called New Look, and each month a new sewing and knitting pattern would pop through my letterbox, ready to be filed away in the ring binder.
I didn't own a sewing machine then, but I read, and re read every instruction booklet for every pattern, and even sewed myself a dress entirely by hand. A simple slash neck dress with batwing sleeves, only two pattern pieces, front and back.
I used some green plaid cotton with a little gold thread woven through it. I remember sitting on my bed painstakingly sewing the seams with a tiny back stitch, and once it was finished, rushing around to see my friend (already a pretty accomplished seamstress.) wearing it proudly.
I eventually learnt to sew at school. My school needlework teacher , Mrs Geddes was easily one of my favourite teachers. I loved lessons tucked away in her classroom. She was very thorough, and taught me the value of good preparation, and of practising a skill.After completing an O Level in needlework, I decided to continue to A level, Needlework and Dress. I believe it was an A level that was discontinued the year after I took it. I guess it was quite an old fashioned A Level, but the basics of good dressmaking, I don't believe ever go out of fashion. I do think it's a shame those basics are not well taught anymore. I honestly despair at the "Textiles" lessons my children have so far received at high school.
My A level lessons were a cosy affair, only three of us took the course, and Mrs Geddes would often have taught a cookery class before our lesson, and would bring along treats like scones, all with cups of tea, in a cup and saucer of course! (She did make sure we had these treats at a separate table to our work.)
Even during practical exams, she'd make us a welcome cup of tea.
During my time in the sixth form, I was fairly experimental with my clothes, make up and especially my hair. I was briefly banned from attending school assemblies because my mohican (which I wore braided .) was considered a poor example for the younger pupils in the school.I was also banned from a school trip because of the length of my skirts.
Mrs Geddes, a woman of a certain age who invariably dressed in tweed skirts and twinsets however, never batted an eyelid at my fashion or hair choices, and I loved her for that.

These days when I sew, I have the wise words of Mrs Geddes in my head. Sometimes, when I cut corners, or skip something I really know I shouldn't I can feel her mild disapproval, which is why I called this blog Lazy Seamstress in the first place.
I am grateful for the good grounding in dressmaking skills that Mrs Geddes passed on to me. I think good habits and skills are a gift, and sometimes allow me to cut the occasional corner, and I hope Mrs Geddes would agree if she were here to see.

So, why am I blathering on about my old Needlework teacher and basic skills? Simple really, I'm thinking of running a mini series on here, of back to basics for all aspiring seamstress'.
I haven't bothered before because I'm fairly sure this has already been covered in the world wide web, probably in a million ways already, but why not eh? I'm lucky to have been taught well. I'm not the worlds best seamstress, I still have plenty to learn, but I hope I can pass on a little of my skills and knowledge to someone out there. I will be combining the basics taught to me so well at school, with my own experience and personal opinion.

Back To Basics will start with the very basics, of choosing a sewing machine and organising your sewing space. Watch this space.