India loves fashion, unfortunately her allowance rarely stretches far enough to buy all the clothes she'd like.
On one of our recent shopping trips, she showed me several dungaree dresses she liked in various high street stores, ranging in price from £30-£50 or thereabouts. I knew I could whip her up something similar from stash, therefore costing her nothing, so she told me what she wanted. I drew a few quick sketches and together we came up with this design.

India wanted a full skater skirt, with bib that could be worn up or down and straps.



The circle skirt was a challenge with this fabric, a very stretchy needlecord. I will not ever again attempt a circle skirt with so much stretch in every direction. The waist stretched out so badly I had to make considerable adjustments leaving the skirt still full and flirty, but no longer a true circle.
Ideally I'd have used different fabric, but this was sewing from stash.



The skirt facings,bib lining and pocket lining/trim are all a print cotton, also from stash, and I think originally a gift from my friend Caroline.



The only items purchased for the dress are the buttons, which cost 69p. I had the dungaree clips already, though to be honest they are a little on the small side, and I might swap them out with some larger ones. Although India is happy enough with them.



On the whole, a fun project that will hopefully satisfy India's current fashion fix. I'll get some modelled shots probably tomorrow.

A few weeks ago I bought a plain white cotton dress in a sale. I liked the shape of the dress, but not the colour. I checked it was mostly cotton and bought it thinking I could dye it.



A couple of packets of dye later I have this.



Honestly, I'm never really happy with things I dye at home, to me the dye always looks too powdery when dry. I wore this yeaterday though and I think it's ok. I probably will wear it again...maybe.

Look on any sewing website or in any sewing book and you will find a list of essential equipment. Here, I'm going to talk about my essentials for dressmaking. Quilters and crafters might have a slightly different list, but as a dressmaker that only rarely dabbles in other types of needlecraft I am concentrating here on dressmaking.



Dressmaking Shears: Don't ever skimp on these, buy the best you can afford, keep them sharp and NEVER let anyone cut paper with them. My family all know well that using Mummy's dressmaking shears is a heinous and terrible crime, and they would never do it. (I'm not sure what they think I might do if they did, but clearly this is one area of my parental discipline that has actually worked.)

Small Craft/Embroidery Scissors: I have several pairs of these dotted about my various work stations. I use them for snipping threads,trimming seams and sometimes unpicking when I can't find my stitch ripper. (not really recommended)

Large Paper Scissors: You will need these for cutting pattern pieces. I'm not totally averse to cutting tissue pattern pieces with my dressmaking shears,but I would never cut paper patterns with those. That's what I use my paper scissors for.

Tape Measure: Buy a good quality tape that will not stretch. I like to wear a tape measure around my neck so it's always with me while I work, but I also like to have a couple of coiled tape dispenser gadgets too. Following a tip from my good friend and seamstress Mary, I always try to carry a tape in my handbag. I treated myself to this one just recently.

Pins and Pin Cushion: I am probably quite unusual in dressmaking circles because I don't tend to use dressmaking pins. I always used to, but when I started making cloth nappies a decade or so ago, it became apparent that using small pins it was too easy to overlook a pin and leave it in the nappy. Counting them in and out was fine, but not foolproof. That is when I switched to using quilters large pins with large heads. Nowadays I simply find these easier to handle and easier to keep track off...my family do not appreciate stepping on tiny pins I've dropped, they don't like stepping on large ones either, but I'm far for likely to see those before anyone steps on one. Plus, being larger they tend to rarely land in a way that can cause too much damage to a bare foot. Another bonus is that they are very pretty.

Top Tip: a magnet is a handy tool to keep with your pins, if you do drop them, the magnet makes it a whole lot easier to pick them up again...just keep it away from your sewing machine if it's a modern computerised model.

As for pin cushions, I have several. I like one on my desk and I like to wear a wrist cushion for when I'm cutting out or fitting.



Hand Sewing Needles: Hand sewing is an essential part of any dressmaking. I love handsewing, I find it relaxing. I always keep a good selection of hand sewing needles in my pin cushion.

Machine Sewing Needles: I always keep a good selection of machine needles and change them frequently depending on the fabrics I'm using, and at the beginning of each new project. This is one of the biggest mistakes beginners make; not changing the needle in their machine frequently or appropriately.

Stitch Ripper: It would be nice to never need one of these, but trust me, we all do sometimes, and they are also very useful for cutting buttonholes after machine stitching.

Tailors Chalk/Marker Pens: I use both of these. I think my personal preference is for marker pens, usually if I'm drafting a new pattern, rarely if I'm working on a precious item. I wouldn't say I use either that often, but they are very useful. Just don't use the dissapearing ink kind of pen and take a break of a few days before getting back to your project...ask me how I know!!!

Iron and Ironing board: You know, really this should be top of the list. I can't emphasise enough how important good pressing equipment is to good dressmaking. I was taught to press at *every* stage of dressmaking. I never skimp on pressing.Your garments will go together so much easier if you press at every stage, and the end result will be worth it.
I recently read this excellent article on pressing.
Buy the best iron you can, one with good steam, but also good dry iron capabilities. Don't skimp on the ironing board either. I find I prefer a large ironing board, they make ironing large lengths of fabric so much easier, but also feel more sturdy.
As this is a list of essentials, I've debated adding extras like a tailors ham, sleeve roll or pressing cloth. You certainly can get by without these, but in my experience they do make a great deal of difference to the process of pressing. I would say, they are not truly essential, but if you can afford them, (and they are quite inexpensive), then do buy them. Of course a pressing cloth need cost very little, you can use fabric from your stash or a well washed cotton tea towel /old sheet. (Hmmm I think another seperate post on pressing alone is called for.)

So tell me, how does this list differ to yours? What would you add and why?

Sid with his latest bit of lego, all saved up for himself.



A note found on the sofa in the morning.



An early Father's Day present. 1920's mixing bowl found at the Vintage Village in Stockport.



Eden in her latest upcycled outfit. She's got quite a flair for sewing. She'll ask me occasional questions, but otherwise gets on with it herself.

Using Random.org I've picked the winners of my woolly baby bundles. First winner, of the set pictured above is Ruby Ellis.






Second winner of the set pictured below is Dandelion.






Please mail me jeanette at lazyseamstress dot net and I'll get your prizes off in the post asap. x

Huge clearance sale going on over at my Flossie's Garden shop on Etsy, Time to make way for new stock. Some items reduced as low as £1.50, nothing in the sale section is more than £8.50 and I've included the special occasion gowns. Lots of cute gift ideas for anyone you might now with a newborn.

Yep, I missed week twenty one.
This weeks photos are all from our camping trip to Sennen in Cornwall.

I'm participating again this year in Angie's Right Where I Am Project. I'll be honest, there is a part of me that thinks perhaps I should skip it this year, but there is a larger part of me that values the opportunity to talk about Florence and how things are now, almost four years out from her birth and death.
I wrote in those early days of how I thought over time this blog would start to become more about sewing again, and less about grief. I can see that is starting to happen as I predicted.
I do feel that I am now beginning to finally awaken from the fog of grief. I'm looking around me and realising how much I've missed, and it's scary to think of how much catching up I have to do.
I don't read as many babyloss blogs as I used to, I can feel I'm slipping away from that need to connect, although the women I met in those early days will always be my sisters in loss, and their babies always remembered and loved. 
Florence is integrated into our family life securely. I know some people have forgotten, I know some people prefer to forget, but it doesn't matter anymore because she has a firm position in the lives of those that matter.

 

There are still times when the intense longing for Florence to be here is more than I can stand. Times when I'm overwhelmed with grief and despair and guilt. Often a tiny insignificant moment can send me reeling, knocking me sideways and taking my breath away.
Florence occupies the spaces between each and every breath I take, she is there between the full stop and the beginning of the next word.
I find it hard to imagine her at almost four years old. I could imagine her as a baby and then to my surprise a toddler. I used to be able to feel her by my side, but lately I can't. I watch her shadow babies, and I marvel at their bigness, and I just can't see Florence that way. I know this might change.
There is no end to this grief. I know it will change as my life continues. I know I can and will still be surprised by it.
Mostly though I know how much I love and miss my little girl, and everything she'll never be. I know that when my big girls are dancing on the back seat of the car that my heart will swell with joy and simultaneously break into a million pieces for the little girl who will never dance along to the radio with her sisters, the little girl who will never splash in the sea at our favourite "crumpet" beach....

Florence Violet, you are loved, so loved. xxxxXx

Previous years posts: 2012 and 2011 and also Vlog of 2011's post