Friday, July 25, 2014

Myrtle by Colette Patterns

myrtle 11

I'm having a Colette week! I bought the PDF version of this new pattern from Colette earlier this week, and with a little help from Ernest spent the other afternoon piecing it together. I love being able to download patterns, but I hate the piecing together!

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I wasn't really convinced this style would suit me, but I fancied a change from my usual fitted bodice full skirt style dresses, telling myself it's good to venture out of my comfort zone. What really made my mind up for me was seeing that I could use a woven for this pattern.

I cut out a straight L (12-14), and figured I'd probably not need a FBA (full bust adjustment ) with such a loose and drapey bodice.

The bodice went together very easily. I used a contrasting satin bias to finish the back neck and back armholes.

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I really like the way the front bodice has a self lining that encloses the shoulder and side seams.
Adding the skirt was straight forward, and then I realised I had run out of elastic! A quick call to Woody and he promised to nip into Abakhan on his way home to buy me some. (Love that man!) Unfortunately Abakhan were having issues with their tills and Woody not wanting to miss his train had to leave without the elastic. After a rummage through my habby stocks I found a piece of soft waistband elastic that was just the right size.

I had been trying the dress on throughout and was pleasantly surprised by the way it looked, so imagine my dissapointment when I tried on the completed dress and saw in the mirror what could only be described as "a sack of spuds tied in the middle!"

The elastic casing had pulled the waist too high, and the skirt way too short, plus it was bulky and ugly. I double checked the instructions and the excellent video tutorial on the Colette blog in case I'd mis understood, but no, I had been correct.
I think ideally I should have added some length to the bodice to account for the way my boobs pull up the front bodice, although that wouldn't have dealt with the bulk of the elastic waist.

I even tried the dress on India, thinking at least she could wear it, but it looked equally horrible on her, and she is significantly taller and slimmer than me...everything looks good on her!

After a pout and a moan, I began the unpicking. I took out the elastic and the casing, and decided to add regular thin elastic to the seam allowance using a stretch stitch. I measured the elastic, pinned it equally around the waist seam allowance, and stretching as I went stitched it in place. This gave me back enough length in the bodice and the skirt, and I think I'm left with a wearable dress.

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I am still not totally convinced it's me, or even particulary flattering, but it does feel lovely to wear. I used a lightweight viscose that once again my friend Mary picked out for me. (It's good to have a friend who works in a fabric shop and knows what I like!)



9 comments:

  1. I had almost the EXACT experience. I love the way the bodice looks and the instructions for the skirt are fun to follow. however.....It looks like an empire on me which isn't a good look for me as I have full boobs and the bodice is so blousy. I DOUBLE ZIGZAGGED STITCH both the bottom and the top of the elasticized waistband so I have two choices: unpick that for hours or give it up as a muslin and try another and this time add about 3 inches to the bodice. I did intend for the first to be a muslin but the rayon fabric is soft and pretty enough to be a wearable muslin, as I'd intended. I did see somewhere online that in a woven the waistband has to be flipped up so one should add length to the bodice.....I wish that had been clearly stated on the written. I like the pattern enough to try it again. I do love your fabric choice and though it's hard to clearly see your fit, I think the color looks beautiful on you!

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    1. Glad I'm not alone in having the same issues, but sorry to hear your wearable muslin isn't so wearable.

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  2. Wow, I just purchased this pattern and being a busty gal, thought to myself, "Hmmm...should I add extra boobage space?" apparently the answer is Yes. Sorry for your diappointment but this will help me when I do put it together. BTW, it looks great really great on you, so it is not a loss.

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    1. Hi Diana, I think if you want more of a drape, then the FBA is essential, I'm happy with the width, but definately should've added some to the length to accomodate my boobs.

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  3. I think you look lovely! It always takes a bit of getting used to when you wear something out of your comfort zone. I'm feeling the same about the Staple Dress - it looks nice but it's a bit of a style departure for me. Still, I'll wear it.

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    1. Thank you Sarah. I have worn the dress today and there is lots I like about it. I'm not about to make more in this style, but it's certainly a wearable and comfortable dress.

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  4. I do think this is a lovely dress on you. Not a disaster at all.

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  5. OMG! I had the SAME issue! It went together nicely and then I tried it on and was like WHAT IS THIS?! The elastic was like up under my boobs almost and the elastic was all kinds of weird uncomfortableness! I am going to pull off the skirt and make some adjustments to the waistband. I made mine from a silk non-knit and the cowl part is not very flattering either (though I turned it around and it actually looks better in the back).

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