I'm still working on perfecting the fit of my new bodice block. I've been working on this dress on and off for a few weeks now, finally finishing it last week only to put it on and realise despite all my tinkering it still doesn't quite fit right!
I re drafted the front into a princess seam, which I think works well on a larger bust, but kept the back bodice darted, which hasn't worked well at all!
My upper back is rounded and wider than might be expected, while my rib cage is actually very narrow, so fitting my back is often more of a challenge than fitting my bust....the problem with learning about fit is the more you know, the more you find there is to learn....actually that's how it is with sewing anyway, and why I love it so much!


You can see here how I tried to fix my gaping shoulders with small darts that were intended to fit over my rounded upper back, and they do (my dress form doesn't have the same shape there. ), but there is too much looseness around my back rib cage, while the darts fit nicely into my waist.
I was going to abandon this dress, chuck it in a charity bag, especially with spring on it's way. The dress is a medium weight wool blend and fully lined! Today though it snowed, and so I might have a chance to wear it soon, if I fix it. I intend, as a quick fix to take in a seam from the tip of the waist dart to the tip of the shoulder dart, trim away the excess fabric, resulting in a faux princess seam.....it might work! I hope it does!


I will keep you posted! Oh and I did press it, this fabric is stubborn, and holds too many creases!

Over the summer, my friend and fabric dealer/enabler Mary and I have been meeting up in any bits of spare time to help each other draft and fit basic bodice blocks. (sometimes called slopers) We both struggle to get a perfect fit with standard patterns, both of us are blessed (or cursed!) in the bosom department, but have small backs, and narrow shoulders. Actually we both have remarkably similar measurements, unyet as we discovered both needed very different adjustments to our basic blocks, which only goes to show that standard sizes and styles work differently even on two women with the same main measurements, ie bust and waist.

I discovered I have a more rounded back than I realised, with small sloping shoulders and a sway back...then there is my dowagers hump! I can't say fitting the back was much fun for me. You may or may not have noticed that I almost never post back views on my blog, and that is because I think I look rather odd from the back, and I struggle to get a good fit with commercial patterns in the back bodice.

This photo shows my first fitted bodice block, before moving the shoulder dart.



This photo shows my first fitted bodice block after moving the shoulder dart to the side bust. Putting even this calico toile on felt amazing!



I was so pleased with how this toile felt that I had to try making a simple dress using it. I'd been planning to make a sleeveless dress to wear over a long sleeved sweater in the winter, and this seemed the perfect chance to give it a go. So using my newly drafted basic bodice block I cut out a simple sleeveless bodice and self drafted circle skirt. I added pockets in the side seams of the skirt, and cut bias binding from the same fabric to finish the armholes and neck. The resulting dress is simple, but I love it! Far from perfect, I think the front waist darts could come in a little more, and yes the neckline is a little high, but I know this is a dress I will wear lots this Autumn and Winter.

Best of all, is now I have a basic bodice block that fits, the options to make many different designs are huge. I can't wait to get started!

And look a back view!!



Next on the list is drafting a sleeve...